The SPF File: What’s Clean, What’s Safe, and What Works?

SPF has officially entered its cool girl era—but with so many labels shouting “clean,” “reef-safe,” and “mineral-only,” it’s easy to feel sun-shielded and overwhelmed. Not all sunscreens are created equal, and finding one that ticks the boxes for safety, skin-friendliness, and actual protection is a full-time job. At Dandy, we’ve done the digging to help you navigate the SPF shelf with confidence—and figure out what’s really worth slathering on.

By Dandy / Apr 28 2025

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Let’s be honest. SPF is the one non-negotiable in your skincare routine that somehow still causes a lot of confusion. One minute you’re told to reapply every two hours. The next, someone on TikTok is telling you your sunscreen is toxic. Mineral, chemical, reef-safe, broad-spectrum — it’s a lot.

As conversations around ingredient safety and sustainability grow louder, sun protection is under the microscope. We’re no longer just asking does it work?, but also what’s in it, is it safe for me and the planet, and can I wear it without looking like a ghost?

Welcome to the SPF File — your fuss-free guide to what actually matters when choosing sunscreen in 2025.

First, Why Is SPF So Important?

SPF (sun protection factor) is your skin’s first line of defence against UV radiation, which is responsible for around 90 percent of visible skin ageing. That includes wrinkles, pigmentation, and loss of elasticity. More seriously, UV exposure is also the leading cause of skin cancer.

Wearing SPF daily — even in the UK and even when it’s cloudy — is one of the most powerful steps you can take to protect your skin long-term.

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SHOP

beauty

BUTTER BRICK Solid Face and Body Cleanser

£14.00

RUB Solid Balm

£32.00

SOAK Bath Salts

£38.00

SMOOTH Body Oil

£44.00

Iron

£16.00

Skin Hydrator

£36.00

Skin Filter

£38.00

Multi Vitamin Women

£28.00

Defense Drops

£25.00

Sleep Drops

£20.00

Vitamin C

£16.00

True Hydration Sachets

£24.00

Wild Collagen

£29.00

True Collagen

£29.00

Tremella

£49.99

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Mineral vs Chemical: What’s the Difference?

This is where it starts to get confusing. There are two main categories of SPF filters: mineral and chemical.

Mineral (or physical) sunscreens use natural minerals like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide to sit on top of the skin and physically deflect UV rays. Think of them like a shield.

Chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays and convert them into heat, which then gets released from the skin.

Mineral SPF Pros:

Often better tolerated by sensitive skin
Starts working immediately after application
Generally considered more “reef-safe”

Mineral SPF Cons:

Can leave a white cast (though new formulas are getting much better)
Thicker textures can feel heavy or greasy

Chemical SPF Pros:

Lightweight and often invisible on the skin
Easy to layer with makeup

Chemical SPF Cons:

Can sting eyes or irritate reactive skin
Some filters are under scrutiny for potential hormone disruption or environmental impact

So which is better? The truth is, it depends on your skin, your lifestyle, and your personal values.

Clean SPF: Is It Worth the Hype?

Clean beauty has entered the sun care chat — and as with most things labelled “clean”, the term isn’t regulated. But in general, clean SPF aims to avoid certain synthetic ingredients that may pose health or environmental risks, such as:

Oxybenzone and octinoxate (linked to coral reef bleaching and potential hormone disruption)

Fragrance and essential oils (common irritants for sensitive skin)

Parabens and silicones (controversial but not inherently harmful)

The clean SPF space often leans towards mineral filters and focuses on minimal, non-toxic ingredients. Brands like Ultra Violette, Pai, and Biossance are doing a solid job of combining efficacy with clean formulations.

Clean SPF can absolutely be effective — just make sure it’s broad-spectrum and has at least SPF 30.

What Does ‘Reef-Safe’ Actually Mean?

“Reef-safe” sunscreens are made without certain UV-blocking chemicals thought to harm marine ecosystems, particularly coral reefs.

The most commonly banned ingredients are:

Oxybenzone
Octinoxate
Octocrylene

If you’re swimming in natural bodies of water, it’s worth choosing a product that’s certified reef-safe or clearly marked as free from these ingredients. It’s better for marine life and often better for your skin too.

That said, the term isn’t legally regulated in the UK or EU, so always check the label.

SPF and Skin Type: How to Pick Yours

For dry skin:
Look for SPF with added hydration — hyaluronic acid, squalane or ceramides are great.

For oily or acne-prone skin:
Go for non-comedogenic, gel-textured SPFs. Niacinamide is a bonus for calming inflammation.

For sensitive skin:
Mineral filters are your friend. Avoid added fragrance, alcohol and citrus oils.

For deeper skin tones:
Seek out mineral SPFs that promise sheer or tinted finishes. Brands are finally catching up and creating options without the chalky cast.